Everything you need to know
about the great dining city that is Boston—including the hottest
restaurants, chefs, trends and more
by Christine Celli and
Christopher Wallenberg
HOT
CUISINE: ITALIAN
Once upon a time, if you wanted great Italian food, you went
straight to the North End. But now there are celebrated Italian
eateries all over town, from Via Matta in Park Square to Teatro
in the Theater District, and two newcomers have further stoked
this fire. Umbria (295 Franklin St., 617-338-1000), which opened
with a splash in the Financial District last fall, focuses on the
nuances of the oft-overlooked Umbria region of Italy. The
impeccable team of Marisa Iocco and Rita D’Angelo execute the
more robust, meat-centric Umbrian dishes for hungry diners. On
the other hand, La Morra (48 Boylston St., Brookline,
617-739-0007) reminds us that Tuscany is still a lovely place to
be—except perhaps for Atkins dieters. Reunite with pasta made to
perfection on a 1940s-era machine or savor the succulent roasted
meats that have made this northern region of Italy a popular
reference for Italian-American chefs for decades.
HOT CONCEPTS:
SIBLING RIVALRY and MERITAGE
Beantown’s now got its own version of TV’s “The Iron
Chef.” Brothers Bob and David Kinkead square off in a battle of
recipes at Sibling Rivalry (525 Tremont St., 617-338-5338), a
high-concept new eatery in the South End. What’s the hook? Each
brother creates a dish based around a particular ingredient—be it
beets, ginger, clams, cod or whatever else they decide. The
results are tantalizing. While Bob uses duck confit to enliven a
salad of red cabbage, endive, apple and Roquefort, David fashions
an entree of laquered duck meat kissed with port and accompanied
by chestnuts, sauteed quince and roasted vegetables. This is one
familial food fight you won’t want to miss.
Whether you’re an oenophile, a
wine novice who wants to learn more or just a fan of the
critically acclaimed, hit movie Sideways, you’re sure to love
Meritage at the Boston Harbor Hotel (Rowes Wharf, 617-439-3995).
Nationally renowned chef Daniel Bruce has created an ingenious
wine and food pairing menu that helps illuminate and enhance the
flavors of both. Diners choose a wine category—sparklers, light
whites, fruity reds, robust reds, etc.—then pick one of four
corresponding dishes. Both small and large plates are available
for each selection, so patrons can experience a number of
combinations in one meal.
HOT
FRENCH: PIERROT BISTROT
In 2004, the Hub bid au revoir to two classics in
French cuisine—the landmark restaurant Maison Robert, and the
legendary chef who brought French cooking into our homes for
decades, Julia Child. Fortunately, just when we feared the Eiffel
Tower would be the next to go, we spied the retro-esque menu of
this new eatery in Beacon Hill (272 Cambridge St., 617-725-8855),
full of dishes like coq au vin, chocolate mousse and duck a
l’orange. Better still, the eatery is the creation of Jacky
Robert, scion of the Robert family. Seems Julia is still shouting
“bon appetit” from the heavens.
HOT SUSHI:
OSUSHI
Boston may be known around the world for its seafood restaurants,
but when it comes to sushi, the Hub usually bows to our
California counterparts. So here’s hoping the arrival of this
sleek little sushi bar marks the beginning of a raw fish craze in
our seafood-loving burg. Located in the Westin Hotel across from
Copley Place (refer to listing, page 57) with a new location
downtown at 101 Arch Street, this cool eatery dishes up some of
the freshest sushi around. But it’s the innovative maki
rolls—creative combos like crystal rainbow (eel, avocado,
cucumber and tobiko, topped with tuna, sake and white fish) and
TNT (baked spicy salmon, lettuce, avocado and cucumber, atop
homemade hot sesame oil)—that will make you forget all about that
great sushi you had on your last visit out West.
HOT HEALTH FOOD:
LUCY'S
Fad diets come and go, but some nutritional suggestions
persevere. Keep it fresh, keep it low fat. Which is why the
varied menu at Lucy’s (242 Harvard St., Brookline,
617-232-LUCY)—which includes everything from pizza and french
fries to slow-cooked pork and an artisan cheese plate—gets our
vote for the health-conscious. By preparing its food without
butter or cream, Lucy’s lets patrons fulfill all their cravings
without feeling like they’re denying themselves a thing.
HOT PRE/POST THEATER:
TEATRO and B&G OYSTERS
A few things are key when it comes to finding the best spot for
dinner before theater: location, convenience and cost. But since
no one likes to sacrifice quality to satisfy those goals, we’re
happy to report some restaurants embody all four qualities. If
you’re in the Theater District, look no further than Teatro
(refer to listing, page 56). Heading to the new theaters in the
South End? Try B&G Oysters (550 Tremont St., 617-423-0550). Both
offer a variety of quick bites at reasonable prices as well as
flavors you’ll savor well through the first act.
HOT PRE/POST CELTICS:
ANTHEM
Finally, jocks can combine date night with sports and still keep
their pride thanks to the stand-out North Station-area eatery
Anthem (138 Portland St., 617-523-8383), which combines the
efficiency and fun of a sidewalk sausage vendor with some
outstanding, upscale cuisine. That means Dude Food like meatloaf
and beer-braised beef stew prepared in a way that won’t induce
heartburn. Better still, the menu includes smaller plates like a
Cuban sandwich and a poached pear and brie salad for those
looking for a quick bite before tip-off. You can also head there
after the game for innovative cocktails in its classy, plush
velvet lounge.
HOT TREND:
AMUSE-BOUCHE
A French culinary tradition meaning “amusement for the
mouth,” these small, delightful bites, or mini-appetizers, are
meant to whet the palate before the meal begins or cleanse it
between courses. And the amuse bouche seems to be popping up
everywhere these days. Of course, it’s the whim of the chef that
will determine what appears at your table. But Pino Maffeo at L
(see sidebar) seems to be having the most fun with the concept.
Recent visits produced a shot of tomato water topped with a
swizzle stick of prosciutto and cappuccino-flavored cotton candy.
HOT DESSERTS:
KIDDIE TREATS for GROWN-UPS
With the non-stop deluge of war, politics and natural disasters,
Beantown’s chefs seem to be retreating from all the bad news and
getting in touch with their inner child. Look no further than
their playful, whimsical dessert ideas—with grown-up twists, of
course. The aphrodisiac milkshake at Union Bar and Grill in the
South End (1357 Washington St., 617-423-0555) is a
retro-concoction with a kick-start of Godiva liqueur that you
drink through a big, fat straw. At Spire (see sidebar), the
Manhattan float is awash in bourbon-flavored ice cream, homemade
bing cherry soda and vermouth whipped cream. Meanwhile, the
tattooed, motorcycle-riding chef Robert Fathman continues to push
the envelope at Anthem with the fried twinkie, an actual Hostess
treat topped with berry coulis.
HOT GENRE:
STEAKHOUSES
There seems to be no limit to Bostonians’ hankering for red meat
these days. Exhibit #1: Anthony Ambrose, the city’s king of
Asian-influenced fusion cuisine, closed the doors on his
acclaimed Ambrosia on Huntington last year to open Blackfin
Chophouse and Raw Bar (116 Huntington Ave., 617-247-2400), a
paean to surf and turf. Already bursting with enough chophouses
to feed a small country, Boston recently welcomed another
powerbrokers-haven, the Smith and Wollensky franchise, which
moved into the historic Castle at Park Plaza (101 Arlington St.,
617-423-1112). Later this year, the country’s biggest steakhouse
chain, Ruth’s Chris, takes over the former Maison Robert digs at
Old City Hall.
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