Despite a slumping economy and a looming war in Iraq, Bostonians still want to eat—and they want to eat well. In the past six months alone, a bevy of new dining options have sprouted up, some aspiring to give patrons more than just a good meal. If there is a new trend, it’s this: Bridging the gap between restaurant and nightclub, many new spots now pair cocktails with music and the option of tapas-style dining. For those who feel every night spot in town has been invaded by the college crowd, they now have places to paint the town red—not to mention enjoy food from the city’s top chefs. The following is a collection of new destinations for not only eating well, but places to see and be seen. |
SPIRE
Nine Zero Hotel, 90 Tremont St., 617-867-0707. As the restaurant for
the new boutique hotel Nine Zero, Spire may have a monopoly on the kind of
A-list patrons that the city’s new dining spots are clambering for. After
all, the hotel has already attracted everyone from Clint Eastwood to pop
princess Avril Lavigne. But the buzz about Spire began long before the
celebrities came to town. First it was the dining room: Minimalist chic
with a translucent bar that from the back looks like an abstract painting.
Then it was the food: Chef Jeffrey Everts strives for simplicity in his
menu, but don’t mistake that mantra for boring. The menu is dotted with
French inspired-dishes and flavors that are uncomplicated yet creative.
Everts may still make tweaks to his menu, but most in town agree he is a
chef to watch.
AZURE
Lenox Hotel, 61 Exeter St., 617-933-4800. Like Spire, Azure takes some
direction from the hotel that houses it. But while Spire and the Nine Zero
Hotel represent a changing Boston, the Lenox Hotel represents classic
standards. Enter chef Robert Fathman, late of Grill 23 and The Federalist,
who was hired to shake things up while still appealing to the hotel’s
regulars. His solution is seafood, but not necessarily from local waters.
Fathman imports fish from as far off as Hawaii and mixes them in with a
menu including local favorites like Atlantic lobster, giving both visitors
and locals something they’ve never had before.
THE NIGHTINGALE
578 Tremont St., 617-236-5658. Once everyone stopped talking about the
walls (which are painted a very bright green), most in town agreed this
eatery has a lot of other things going right. Opened by Kevin Sheehan (who
also owns Delux Cafe, a local favorite around the corner), The Nightingale
features more upscale dining at extremely reasonable prices for the
quality of food (entrees generally top out at $20). Chef Michael Burgess
serves up well-balanced plates with a strong technique that’s stood out in
a neighborhood already teeming with top-notch restaurants.
VIA MATTA
79 Park Plaza, 617-422-0008. After several years perfecting the tres
chic Radius, Michael Schlow and Christopher Myers launched this
back-to-basics Italian trattoria. Schlow says Via Matta honors classic
recipes by executing them the way they were meant to be—unfussed and using
the best products available. Schlow knighted his Radius sous chef Luis
Morales to helm the kitchen, where he churns out traditional Italian
dishes like antipasto and homemade spaghetti, as well as exotic treats
like octopus and rabbit, prompting Esquire to name it one of America’s
Best New Restaurants in 2002.
UPSTAIRS ON THE SQUARE
91 Winthrop St., Cambridge, 617-864-1933. When Harvard booted Upstairs
at the Pudding from its digs above the Hasty Pudding Theatre, we lost one
of the area’s most tranquil al fresco oases, not to mention one of our
most beloved dining institutions. So when Pudding owners Mary-Catherine
Deibel and Deborah Hughes announced that they’d be re-opening their
longtime labor of love, former customers waited with bated breath. The new
two-story Upstairs on the Square retains the Pudding’s eclectic,
theatrical decor—a throwback to 1940s glamour, with bright pink walls,
gold trim and leopard and zebra print carpets. But the owners also
recruited former Food and Wine Best New Chef Amanda
Lydon to
complement longtime executive chef Scott Olsen in the kitchen.
33 RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE
33 Stanhope St., 617-572-3311. After travels all over the world,
co-owners Greg Den Herder and Igor Blatnik combined the best of their
experiences to give Boston a restaurant they’ve never seen before. The
menu, half Italian, half French, may finally solve that “what to eat”
dilemma. But don’t let your evening end when you’re done dining on chef
Charles Draghi’s award-winning cuisine. The downstairs, color-changing bar
has become a popular after-work nightspot, pairing music and elaborate
cocktails.
SAINT
90 Exeter St., 617-236-1134. Yes, singer Billy Joel and MTV VJ Carson Daly
were at Saint’s opening party, but it’s the star in the kitchen who caught
our attention. Chef Rene Michelena (La Bettola, Centro) says he’s finally
doing what he’s always wanted to do: southeast Asian fusion. Based on what
we’ve seen so far—tuna tartar and osetra caviar and Balinese melting
shortribs with black sesame and haricot vert—he’s found his niche. The
mini portions are perfect for grazing, which should sit well with the
“lounging” crowd who come for the exotic cocktails at this luxurious
nightclub/restaurant. VIP memberships are reportedly going for $10,000 a
pop, but you can still experience Michelena’s cuisine for far less.
CAFFE UMBRA
1395 Washington St., 617-867-0707. Chef-owner Laura Brennan trained
alongside local haute cuisine heavyweights like Todd English and Rene
Michelena before honing her skills with stints at restaurants like
Michela’s and The Blue Room, so her popularity with the city’s top cooks
is no surprise. At Umbra, she serves up modern French- and
Italian-inspired dishes and has created the biggest buzz in seafood
preparation since Jasper White showed Julia Child how he cooks a lobster.
But while local critics have hailed Brennan’s aplomb with fish, Umbra is
not just a seafood restaurant. Perfectly prepared pasta and meat entrees
fill out a menu that, from all accounts, should not be missed.
MERITAGE
Rowes Wharf, Boston Harbor Hotel, 617-439-3995. For 13 years, the Boston
Harbor Hotel has hosted the Boston Wine Festival, with chef Daniel Bruce
perfecting the art of pairing wine with food in order to enhance the
flavors of both. Now Bruce has a brand-new restaurant to support his
passion. Diners at Meritage are encouraged to decide on a wine category,
then pick one of four corresponding dishes. Both small and large plates
are available for each item, so patrons can experience a number of
combinations in one meal.
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